Our Lallemand & Verdant Inspired New England IPA

When we took the decision to ramp up our home-brew content on the channel, one of the first styles we wanted to do was New England IPA. There are lots of reasons for that – we drink a lot of it, we know lots of people are looking for recipes, and Lallemand had just released a very exciting new yeast with our friends and Patreon subscribers Verdant Brewing Co. But the main reason was that it was going to teach us a lot of new skills – skills we could take forward to lots of new styles.

You see, brewing New England IPA isn’t easy on a homebrew scale. Getting lots of yeast and hop character is tough enough, but avoiding oxidation without professional equipment isn’t easy. We go through all that in the videos, so I recommend watching those for the techniques, but the most vital and basic tips are below those, too.




Don’t worry too much about getting oxygen into your wort. There will be enough for this yeast.


Don’t worry too much about oxidation here, just be quick in adding the hops if going through the top. As an additional note, if we brewed this again we would skip this step and the additional hops here after advice from both Verdant and Lallemand – but if you want to do the exact recipe knock yourself out!


You HAVE to flush the headspace with CO2. You can easily bubble this up through the beer. Do so for 30 seconds before adding the hops and 30 seconds about an hour afterwards. This both protects the beer and rouses the hops to increase utilisation.


As you crash to 2C air will be sucked into the fermenter. To avoid this, fill a balloon with CO2 and put it over the top of the blow tube. It will then suck in CO2.


Right, that’s enough oxidation chat. Here’s our Citra, Mosaic and BRU-1 homebrew NEw England IPA recipe made with Lallemand’s Verdant Ale Yeast. Expect big apricot, mango, vanilla and pineapple notes.

Our homebrew New England IPA

Check out our Brewer’s Friend recipe here. This is a for a 20l batch (into fermenter)

WATER (rough target in ppm)

100 Ca+2 
50 Na+
230 Cl- 
14 SO4


3.65kg Extra Pale Maris Otter
0.9kg Golden Promise
0.5kg Carapils
0.25kg Pale wheat malt
0.25kg Flaked wheat
1kg rolled oats


5g Magnum
210g Citra
105g Mosaic
85g BRU-1


1 x 11g Lallemand Verdant Ale Yeast


Adjust your water

Mash in at 67 for 60 minutes

Mash out at 75


60 minutes – 5g Magnum

Chill to 80C 

30 minutes – 60g citra, 40g Mosaic, 20g BRU-1


Chill to 19C – pitch 1 pack of yeast

Wait 48 hours – pitch 30g Citra, 15g Mosaic, 5g BRU-1

Wait 72 hours – raise to 22C

Wait 72 hours – chill to 15C

Pitch 120g Citra, 60g Mosaic, 60g BRU-1 – crash to 2C

Wait 48 hours – transfer to keg

74 thoughts on “Our Lallemand & Verdant Inspired New England IPA

  1. It would be useful to have ingredients listed as percentages as well as actual weights on future recipes, so they can be easily scaled to other brewing systems. Thanks

    • Hey! We didn’t want to be too exact there as all systems vary – you are best using a calculator for your system

  2. Hi, I have many questions since I’m new to brewing. Is there any difference between rolled oats and flaked oats. I have decided not to dry hop and just add the hops at the end of the boil. I have a MiniBrew set up. I believe you used one a while ago. It’s for a batch of 5.5L. Am I right in believing that the recipe is for 5G? Is mash out only for 1min? If you remember the MB comes with a carousel for the hops so I put 30 gr at 5 min and 30 gr at 0 min. These are the figures I get (no Magnum) :
    6 SRM
    5.92 ABV
    35.73 IBU
    OG 1.055
    FG 1.011
    The MB doesn’t have this yeast programmed so I put 80% attenuation. Is this too much? Is 5 gr of yeast enough for 5.5L? The MB doesn’t seem to add any bitterness to 0 min. additions but I believe this is wrong…..?
    Thanks for your time

    • Hey Peter! Welcome to the world of homebrewing! So unfortunately if you aren’t going to dry hop this beer, you aren’t going to get anywhere near what we produced and this would be a totally new beer! Nothing wrong with that but you won’t get that juiciness or really big citrus aroma. However, you should still get a tasty IPA I would just up the bittering addition to create some balance and depth (maybe 8g of Magnum). The hop stand needs to be 30 minutes at 80, not 1 minute!

      • Thank you for your prompt reply. I don’t know what you mean by hop stand. You say mash in at 67 C for 1 Hr. and mash out at 75C but not for how long. I have increased the grain bill and lowered the attenuation of the yeast to 75% and here are the figures I get:
        6 SRM
        5.67 ABV
        35 IBU
        OG 1.056
        FG 1.014
        I can’t put more than 60 gr. of hops in the boil and I want to see what result I get without dry hopping. I believe I’ll probably get more than 35 IBU since there’s no extra bitterness added for whirlpool additions. My question is what IBU am I aiming for?

        • If you aren’t dry hopping, there’s simply no point in discussing the recipe. You are making a different beer and thus the author would have no idea what IBU you are aiming for. It’s like asking “you told us to jump but I decided to crawl. How high should I crawl?”

      • Great video! Attempting my first neipa tomorrow! As far as 2nd dry hop goes, can I remove airlock and pump co2 into headspace through hole or does it have to be from bottom of fermenter, up? Thanks!

        • Ideally it will be from below because that forces any oxygen out – from above you can’t guarantee you’ll purge the headspace. It is better than nothing though!

  3. Excellent couple fo videos. Thanks. I’m now concerned that my latest NEIPA effort will be oxidised as I took very little precaution. Will find out at the weekend. Never mind… live and learn 👍🏻

    What are the differences that oxidation causes? Colour/taste?


    • Hey Andy – in small amounts it will just mute the hop aroma, and create a slight cardboard note. In larger doses it turns to bland caramel/cardboard,sherry tones and the beer itself will get darker and darker.

      • Well…as it happened, it was the latter 😂
        I shall try the funky CO2 though the bottom routine on this current fermentation.

        Thanks again.

  4. Hi. Great video, will definitely be trying out the yeast. For second hop addition, bag up the hops and using a maget secure them to the inside and top of the fermentor. When ready release the bag into the beer – you don’t have to open the fermentor!

  5. Hey guys,

    congratulations on your resounding success! The dry hopping amounts are just mental! Did I calculate correctly that you’re dry hopping at around 14.5g/L??? I’ve currently got a pale ale fermenting which I’m planning to dry hop at 4.5 g/L with Simcoe, Citra and Cascade – and I thought that was ample! (boiled with Simcoe, Cascade and Hallertauer Mittelfrüh with big whirlpool addition). But I guess NEIPA is just another ball park altogether…


    • We didn’t actuall measure pH for this as we knew the exact pH of the water from the start didn’t see a big enough variable to worry about it…sorry!

  6. Great video and information! Love it!

    I’m having trouble to get my hands on some BRU-1 hops. Do you have any suggestions on what I could substitute those hops with instead?

    • There isn’t really one, which is why we used it. My advice would be to up the mosaic addition or go another way – nelson for some acidity, galaxy for some raw dankness…

  7. Hey Guys, top work! Can I just clarify, you add the 2nd dry hop at 15C and immediately start the cooling process down to 2C? So you don’t hold at 15C at all? And then keg after 48hrs after adding the hops? Or 48 hrs after reaching 2C?
    Cheers, Simon

  8. hey Jonny, got a question on the timing: after raising a temperature to 22C it says ‘wait for 72 hours and chill to 15C’, next step is DH and cold crush to 2C – how long the fermentation shall stay at 15C then? thanks.

  9. Are you supposed to add the last dry hop charge and immediately start to cold crash to 2-3ºC?

    I would usually soft crash to 15ºC, for a couple of hours, then rise to 20-21ºC and add the dry hop charge and leave it for 36h, then cold crash to 3ºC for 24h and transfer to keg (ie: a total hop contact time of 60h).

    • You don’t want to have the hops in at 20-21 degrees as this can cause hop creep – the yeast breaking down starch in the hops into sugar and kicking off fermentation (and risking diac production). So near the end of ferment, raise to 21, crash to 15 (where the yeast goes dormant) to add the hops then keep on crashing down. Total contact time shouldn’t be more than 48 hours.

  10. Thank you so much for these videos!! So interesting! I’m currently brewing the Even Sharks need water recipe too but doing as stated on the recipe from malt miller so very similar to yours but just one dry hop (next time I’ll try yours!). Your reply to my question here may be a bit late as I’m already at this stage but it would still be interesting to hear your response anyway 🙂

    I ran a D rest then I’ve soft crashed a few hours ago to 15 degrees. Do you put your final hops in then and keep it at 15 degrees for 72 hours Then cold crash for 48 hours? Or have I got the wrong order there?

    Final question (sorry!), James said you were slightly short on the body of the beer, has he suggested to you how to improve this?

    Thank you so much! Mike

    • Nah, add the hops at 15C, crash straight away to 2/3 and wait 48 hours there.

      Regarding the body of the beer this was down to two things – one it got .001 drier than expected. Not a lot I can do other than a touch more unfermentable sugar from a speciality malt. The main issue was the beer got too dry/astringent which ruined the finish/body – that was due to too much contact time with the hops due to the heatwave slowing my cold crash!

  11. Love the video and thanks for the recipe! One question….what do you think, if I would skip the kegging and would go straight to bottling after fermentation. Do you think I have a chance to get the similar? For some reason I’ve had some bad luck with carbonation in a keg, so don’t want to ruin it….

    • Hmmmm…it’s tricky because you will have to bottle condition which means keeping the beer at a temp that will quickly destroy hop aroma. I’d practise carb on a cheaper beer then go for it proper!

  12. Hi.
    Great tips, thanks for making this video.
    Still a little bit wondering why the SO4 level in water profile is so low?
    Did you have any issues with losing hop aroma dramatically after week or so with this water profile?


  13. Hi guys, I see that you sulfate to chloride ratio is about 0,06, quite different from what we, homebrewers, normally read, to target about 0,5. Was that a recommendation from Verdant, or did you not had sulfate to add? Cheers

  14. I’m a bit confused by your 3 additions at 19degC in your recipe, what are these? Some say dry hop, one says boil, and one says 7 days.

    From the video, you say you are going to do 50g bio transformation (which matches the odd hops weights), then show you only did one dry hop? Clever editing? Or only 1 dry hop, and recipie is as you originally suggested? What is it?

    • Apologies! That is down to editing in the video and me messing up the brewers friend recipe. All fixed now! 50g at peak fermentation, split across those three hops. But do note, we have since said we would probably skip this step after consulting Verdant and Lallemand.

  15. Since Verdant suggest skipping the bio transformation dry hop, would you suggest increasing the whirlpool hop additions to ensure there are plenty of hops in suspension for the hops to work on? Cheers, Clive.

    • I’d just remove that addition entirely. There is PLENTY of hop in the whirlpool already 😉

  16. Nice job and an very interesting video. I´m going to try to brew your neipa this weekend, but with only a late dry hop, after fermentation is done. Which amount hops do you suggest, when I skip the first step dry hopping?
    My batch size is 23 litres, do you think one package of Lallemand IPA is enough?

    • I’d stick to the amount we used, and simply remove the one during fermentation. There are PLENTY of hops in there already. One pack of the yeast should be plenty.

  17. Great videos, awesome beer. Could you share a gear list? I’m considering trying this recipe out myself, but I think I need to upgrade on the gear front.

    • Hey! We’ll be doing a post on that soon but we use a Grainfather, standard fermentation bucket, the premium CO2 regulator from Malt Miller, and our own hacked homebrew fridge. That’s about it!

  18. Hi! We are trying out this brew soon, and we have a question.
    1) Carbonation: Are you just force carbonating in the keg? And would it be feasible to use sugar instead, since we do not have a proper keg.

    • You could, but the issue is you’d need to keep the beer warm for a small amount of time to get secondary fermentation. This will kill some hop aroma and accelerate oxidation. So it might be worth a go, but results will definitely be muted!

  19. Hi, Nice recipe, I Love it the NEIPA, Try with this receipe but In my country they do not sell that verdant IPA yeast, do you know which one I can replace it with to obtain a similar result? Greetings from Chile, very good site and YouTube channel.

  20. Hello! Great video guys!
    Sorry for my bad English, but I’ve some questions that I really want to ask.

    1) Why in the second dry hop, the hops need to stay in contact with beer for less than 48 hours? Is there any chimical reaction? If so, why the hops of whirpool and of the first dry hop (if you do it) can stay in contact for the entire fermentation process?

    2) Why do you suggest to put the beer in the keg to carbonating and not straight in the bottles? Is it a matter of storage temperature that can kill the hops aroma?

    3) If I haven’t reached the FG in about 1 week, could I’ve any problems? Do I have to wait until I reach the FG to do the second dry hop and chill the temperature to 2ºC ?

    Maybe so many questions.
    However thanks in advance

    • Hey Franscesco – answers below!

      1) The longer the hops are in the beer the more chance of green flavours, and the less fresh the aromas will be when packaged.
      2) Bottle conditioning would mean storing it at a temp that would kill a lot of aroma and speed up oxidation
      3) Sounds like fermentation is a bit slow but don’t worry – allow up to 10 days. Do NOT cold crash before FG though, could cause all kinds of issues with flavour and carbonation.

  21. Really enjoyed the video.

    I can see from many of the comments there’s much confusion about the second dry hop. I understand – chill to 15c – add hops and immediately chill to 2/3c.

    I don’t think i’ve ever come accross that technique before so just intrigued where the inspiration came from or if that is just standard practice and i’ve been getting it wrong. Always looking to learn something new 🙂

    • Hey Ben – it comes directly from Verdant. They don’t want to add hops at 16C or higher as that risks getting hop creep (the yeast eating at the hops, creating fermentable sugar and kicking off fermentation again, which can cause diac issues) but equally they seem to like the hops spending a bit of time a little warmer than the cold crash temp.

  22. Thanks for your above response. One other question around whirlpooling – i know generally the recommendation is to cool down to 80c and then add hops and start the whirlpool. At this point would you generally remove the Chiller Coil and/or maintain the temp at 80c or just let it continue cooling?

    Really appreciate your comments. Many thanks

  23. I’m a little confused about the mash out. Was there a recirculating and sparge? The rest of the directions and the video don’t say anything about it so why would you mash out instead of just going up to a boil?

  24. Nice vids, I’ve just ordered the kit from MM so I’m looking forward to getting this going in my unitank, it’s the ideal environment to minimise o2 and control temp variables. I was just wondering what temp you cellared/stored and served this beer at? Thanks guys.

  25. We’re going to try and brew this one in our SS unitank where we have the option of dumping yeast and hop residue that dropped to the bottom. At what stage would you recommend dumping, or would you consider dumping at all?


    • I’d dump it before adding the final dry hop addition. Chill to 15, dump, add the hops.

  26. Hi, great video! Very intersesting, lovely color!

    I was wondering how you managed to get your water profile at 230 Cl- without going over 100 Ca+2 as recommended by Verdant. I usually use Calcium chloride to raise my Cl- level but it would also raise calcium too much.


    • Hey! Basically, SALT! James from Verdant explained it best so I’ll just copy and paste that here: “With sharks we push Chloride up to around 230ppm, we leave Sulphate at base mains level (10ppm), we elevate Sodium to around 50ppm. The Sodium Chloride is added to the boil and the Calcium Chloride to the mash. By doing this we create a very soft mouthfeel but without elevating Calcium levels above 100ppm.” We also of course started with extremely low Calcium water.

  27. Currently boiling this recipe on Vancouver Island Canada. The recipe and yeast is far reaching! Thanks gents!

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